The Monarch "G" Wing Construction

Wing Alignment Jigs

Cut out wing alignment jigs after Glue the plans to 9/16ths (minimum width) plywood. Try to do this gluing on a dry day since the paper plans do expand in humid weather.

Epoxy the first and last wing alignment jigs to a flat floor -use a level to make sure, making sure they are the correct distance apart by first measuring and marking the rib positions on the dtube. Place the dtube in the alignment jigs, adjust #1 and #27 and adjust for vertical, front the back and side to side and that they are parallel. Check the distance from the beginning of rib 1 to the begining of rib 27 as 600.8 cm.(236.5 in)

	Not the wedges and angle brackets bolted to the floor. Use the level to get correct and check constatnly during the building process.
	Alignment jig epoxied to the floor at rib 27. Note the horizontal tensioned string for aligning jig #15 and to align the rear spar to the ribs.

Put in the wing alignment jig for rib 15 using tensioned string on the bottom and top of the jigs to line up with #1 and 27, check with the level for vertical. The distance between jig #1 and 15 should be 326.3 cm.(128.4 inches)

Rib 15 alignment jig. Note the mark on the jig for the placement of the rear spar.

Wing Construction

Lay dtube in alignment jigs. Put some heavy weights on the dtube to hold it firm .Mark Rib locations on dtube. The measurements are from the root of the dtube to the root side cap strip or premade rib. Measure and cut shear web stiffners to length if you use the wood/ corrugated sheets of the ribs.. There are no stiffners needed on the even numbered dtube ribs. Odd numbered ribs get a saw cut to accept the front edge of the rib. See rib placement chart. Sand the shear web and insides of the dtube before gluing on the stiffners/preformed ribs and epoxy with a thick mixture of epoxy and cabosil.

Rib location Chart: note that the measurement is from the root end of the dtube to the root side cap strip of the ribs.

Marking the locations of the stiffners, using a square from the bottom side of the dtube.

Dtube ar root end in the wing alignment jigs, note the wood stiffners. I put stiffners on every nose rib location but this is no longer required since the Nose ribs on the inside give the shear web the required stiffness.

Put on front wing root fittings, M275; Cut a piece out of rib #1 to allow for this fitting:( see the plans). You will have to add a shim here to the top of the shearweb beneath the fitting M275. I added two layers of 10 oz to obtain the correct spacing of .776 cm or .3 inches.

Placement of the Front wing Root fittings M275. Here I have just drilled the holes in the shear web. October 17, 2000 On older models this has a plywood spacer , newer models use only fiberglass and require no spacer for the metal wing root fittings .

Put on Main wing strut fitting M270. This will require putting a hole in the underside side of the Dtube. You will have to make the hole about 1/4 " over size so you can put a wrench in to get the nuts tightened. You will also require another hole on the outboard side of the rib for the other nuts that are inaccessible becuase of the nose rib.

October 17, 2000 On early models cover the oak wood spacer with one layer of 10 oz fiberglass cloth before drilling for the strut fittings.New models have the oak spacer and fiberglasss cloth already installed.

Note the oak wood block spacer with a layer of fiberglass cloth 10 oz over it.The block dimensions are 3.17 cm x 26.2 cm x 1.11 cm thick. (1.24" x 10.31" x .7/16")

Note the cutouts in the dtube. metal parts are M270.

	Careful alignment is needed her to line up the holes in parts 270 top and bottom.
	The competed strut part 270 installed

Rear Spar Installation

Wash the rear spar to get rid of the PVA relase compound. Mark the rib locations on the rear spar, sand those locations that will be epoxied. There are two parts to the rear spar, the rear spar at the elevator and the rear spar at the aileron. The rear spar at the aileron will not be able to be marked until it is installed.

Rib locations on the rear spar measured from the root end of the rear spar to the root side of the rib cap strip

Fit the Ribs #1, 3 and 5 and the rear spar at the Elevator. Cut rib 1 spar caps to length.Fit the rib to dtube, you will haveto sand the cap strips to fit into dtube. Mark the wing alignment jigs for the location of the on the rear spar from rib 1 to 27 by measurement and by use of the tensioned string. Making sure the rear spar lines up with the string before proceeding. All ribs are 90 degrees to the floor : use a level to align them. Note the clamps and braces in the photo.

Note the tensioned string to align the rear spar.Here ribs #1, 5, and 9 are dry fitted.

Ribs 9 to 13 installed

Cut rib 15 spar caps to length mark the rear spar location and cut out the slot for the rear spar. Mark the rear spar location on the wing alignment jig if not already done above. Fit and clamp the rib to fit with rear spar at aileron lined up with the mark on the alignment jig at rib 15.

Cut rib 9 spar caps to length. Cut slot for rear rib. Line up the rear spar locations on ribs 1 and 15 with a taught line. Place rib 9 in so that it lines up with the string which marks the height of the rear spar and then align front to back so that the rib just touches the string.

Dry fit all the pieces, rib 1, rib 9 and rib 15 along with the rear spar (elevator section) Align them with a string stretched tight from the alignment jigs 1 and 15 at the rear spar mark. You will have to cut down the front end top and bottom of the ribs to fit into the Dtube at the shear web.Sand all surfaces to be epoxied. Make sure all the ribs are vertical by checking with a level.

Epoxy in ribs 1, 9 and 15 to the rear spar using a slight mixture of cabosil.... not too stiff or too runny. Use magic cloth on the 45 to epoxy the ribs to the rear spar. Use a thicker mixture to glue the front edges of the ribs to the dtube stiffners.. Double check for alignment. Make sure all areas to be epoxied are sanded well with rough sandpaper.

Tape rib (note packing tape in photo) in place then coat rear about 3/4 inch on the rear spar and about 3/4 inch on the rib. Place the fiberglass cloth at 45 degree and then brush with more epoxy. Clean off excess epoxy.

Next dry fit and then epoxy in rib #2.

Cut out the corrugated fiberglass in the rib to allow space for the rear spar to go through in ribs 11 through 15. Fit those to the rear spar and postion them dry making sure the rear spar location is along the tight string line.. Keeping everything perpendicular to the floor, epoxy in those ribs

Dry fit the rear spar at the aileron. Overlap it on at rib 15 with the rear spar at the elevator above the rear spar at the aileron. Clamp it and rest the tip end on rib 27. Mark the rib locations from the chart above.

Next locate the positions of the drag wire compression and the aileron compression strut. Put four extra layers of cloth on the rear spar locations... roughly 3 inches wide from top to bottom. Put an extra four layers on the dtube at the aileron compression strut, again top to bottom about inches wide.

Fit the rest of the ribs making sure the tight line is in the proper placement for the rear spar. Sand all areas that will need bonding. Use a thick cabosil for the ribs to Dtube stiffners bond and a less thick mixture for the cloth at the trailing edge to rear spar bond. Align very carefully.

Fitting the ribs to the dtube and rear spar

The rear spar wing root fittings installation part #276F and #276R. Reinforce the rear spar at the root fittings with two layers of cloth over ½ the width of the spar. Then glue on the front spacer block with additional two layers of 10 oz cloth.

Next put in the rear spar caps between ribs 9 and 15. This is a block about 3/8 inch wide by 1/2" deep. Cut a slot down the center of these blocks to accept the rear spar. Glue with a thick mixture of Cabo-sil. Plane down to rib height once cured with a hand plane.

Glue and clamp on the gussets to rear spar with cabo-sil ... watch those bonds! No gussets on the Dtube.

Compression Strut installation:

Bolt and nut in the compression struts. The strut may require a small shim of built up fiberglass or plywood.You will have to cut a very small hole in the underside of the shear web to put the nut on the bolt. Use a box end wrench with tape over one opening to hold the nut. Cover the hole with a layer of 10 oz fiberglass; make the surface perfectly smooth by facing it with a waxed piece of Mylar.

Note the thin plywood spacer under the comression strut.

End Plate installation: Cut a piece of 4 mm plywood to the correct shape of the endplate, leave oversize by about 2 inches.Cut Gusset material to size and then lay the wing flat to epoxy it ribs #1 and 2, dtube and rear spar. Use 1/8 to 1/4 inch plywood cut to shape to hold the end plate flat while curing. Wet out the underside of the end plate with epoxy.... remove excess: coat top of ribs with a cabosil-epoxy mixture. Make sure you put seran wrap between the end plate and the plywood otherwise the pylwood will stick to the end plate.! Hold the plywood and end plate down with weights and spring clamps.

Wire bracing installation:

Squeeze a nyco fully on the wire and thimble on part #277 drag wire fitting. Place this on the middle bolt of dtube, then thread the wire through the ribs to the tang on drag wire compression strut at rear spar. Put a thimble on the drag wire tang. Make sure holes in ribs are clear of the wire, nyco pull up snug and squeeze the nyco until there is enough pressure to hold it snug, Fit another thimble and wire with nyco on the remaining drag wire fitting 277 and attach at the rear metal fitting at the rear spar. Thread through ribs and attach to tang on drag wire compression strut pull up snug. Check for vertical with your level on ribs and then compress nyco’s fully. Leave drag fitting slightly loose then when nyco is completely compressed tighten bolts to give the correct tension.

Glue on gussets: Rough surfaces to be glued.

The Gussets carry the structural load form the ribs to the spar so make sure all the bonding is excellent. Clean the surfaces to be glued, sand with rough sandpaper and clamp securely.

Aileron Pushrod Installation: The rib plans have the round hole outlines for the pushrods. Before cutting check their location in the wing. They should be about 4.8 cm (1.8 inches) from the shear web to the center line of the ailerons pushrod bearings. Place the Bearings in the holes of the wing and then place the aileron pushrod in those bearings. Before gluing, line up the bearings parallel to the dtube. Use a think mixture of cabosil or cotton flox to secure the bearings.

	Sanding out the aileron bearing holes with the dremel tool. This work can also be done after epoxying in the rib.
	Aileron pushrod installation at the aileron compression strut

At the root of the Dtube , mark and cut off to the correct angle of 15degrees or 9.0 centimeters (3.54 ") from the root edge to the cut.

I used a hacksaw blade in a holder to cut the dtube. I have found though that the air driven cutoff tool works best fro cutting fiberglass, but it creates a lot of dust.

The wing should be sanded smooth and then painted with a filler. I used UV smooth prime Poly fiber from wicks. Its very expensive but works well and is designed for adheasion to fiberglass. It cleans up in water and dries quickly.

Sand most of the undercoat and pin hole filler off giving a pin hole free surface. This takes time. I finished my wing with Aerothane, again expensive but good.

The fabric I did last, having masked off everything that did not need painting. I still have difficulty mating the fabric to the paint and it takes a little working to mate them. Jim suggests putting the fabric on first then using an epoxy filler to fill the difference between the fabric and the dtube, next time around I will try that.

Wingtips:

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